Cinque Terre
Florence
Italy
Lake Como
Levanto
Parma
Rome
San Gimignano
travel
Venice
Western Europe
Italy
10:19 PMI'm glad my European adventures didn't stop in 2017 because this year, I planted a big red pin on the home of one of the world's greatest architecture, works of art and of course, gastronomy - Italy.
A few lessons to take away before I delve into my itinerary (please learn from these silly amateur mistakes):
- Pack light (okay kinda difficult if it's winter and you're afraid of the cold - I brought THREE coats) because the cobbled walkways are terrible for the wheels on your luggage.
- If you can, rent a car and DRIVE!! Catching trains with a suitcase weighing 20kg is something you'd want to avoid.
- Always put your damn bag pack or sling bag (I would seriously advise against a handbag) in front and hold on to it when you're walking or sitting or chilling or idk just hold on to it seriously.
- If you're not on a budget, BUY ALL YOUR TRANSPORT TICKETS and I mean do it even if you have to stuff money into the bus driver's hands.
- Give yourself extra time in case pubic transport fails on you with the very commonly experienced Italian train delays.
- There's a difference between a Metro station and a train station. A lot of difference.
Our 2-week itinerary:
Venice > Lake Como > Parma > Levanto > Cinque Terre > San Gimignano > Florence > Rome
The Venice I visited was not flooding (thank goodness, on behalf of my spankin' new Zara boots) and although it was still packed with tourists, it wasn't half as bad as the crowds during peak travel seasons.
It was rather easy to get around (by foot so you can accumulate those steps) but if you're done walking just get on the Vaporetto, the equivalent of a water taxi. I'd say it's pointless to spend 100 euros on a 30-min gondola ride because the views from the Vaporetto isn't much different. But I mean, it still sounds romantic to shimmy down the canals with someone serenading Italian songs in a raspy voice...
We spent two nights in Venice and found time to take a day trip to Burano (popular for its lace products) and Murano (for its pretty Venetian glass), both a short Vaporetto ride away. Again, I emphasise on the importance of buying the transport ticket (go for the day pass)!!
Tip: the Venetian glass accessories were cheaper in Venice than in Murano so don't splash all your cash on the small island.
We took four train rides to get to Bellagio, one the main towns surrounding Lake Como, much to my mom’s dismay. I planned for us to stay for one night only but on hindsight, I'd recommend increasing that to at least two nights in summer because of the water sports you can take part in by the lake.
The. Views. Are. Literally. Breath-taking. But there's a price to pay for that... If you're not staying in the main town, you're probably going to stay up in the mountains (like we did) so I'd recommend renting a car because it's hella difficult to get up there. We took a 15-minute cab ride (~60 euros round trip) up to our Airbnb and had to climb 2 flights of very narrow stairs to get to the main door. There was also nothing around our house so we had to do our shopping before calling for a cab. So yes, we actually took 4 train rides and a cab to spend one night in a swanky house on a hill with a gorgeous view of Lake Como (only in the morning when the fog cleared) - something my mom seriously did not agree to. She exclaimed that she should've vetted my itinerary. Do spend more time around the lake if it's part of your plan. Trust me, it’s very worth it!
Our next stop was Parma, a town in the Emilia-Romagna region and also one that's lesser known than it's "big brother" Bologna. Parma is known for, no prizes for guessing, its prosciutto di Parma and parmigiano reggiano. Of course I HAD to have a meal made entirely of just ham and cheese... I also had their house wine called Lambrusco (carbonated wine).
Because February is a low season, a lot of shops weren't open and the town was pretty quiet - perfect for taking countless of pictures without having to edit the crowd out of the background.
Imagine strolling down the already-dark streets at 7pm after an early dinner; it may be kinda cold but you feel warm inside because of the satisfaction from a good meal and tasty wine. This is why I enjoyed our one-night stay - I'm a fan of the slow, laidback holiday but I read that many people take a day trip out to visit Parma and/or Bologna from Milan instead.
I chose to base us in Levanto to visit Cinque Terre because we were coming from up north. BUT I didn't know that we had to go down south and transit at La Spezia before going through all 5 villages of Cinque Terre to finally arrive at Levanto (lmao). We could’ve saved some time if we were based in La Spezia instead. However, that also turned out to be a blessing in disguise because being morning-people, we headed out bright and early from Levanto and started at Monterosso before ending our visit in Riomaggiore. Most people start off where we ended instead so we definitely caught a bonus there!
Anyway, because it was a low season, the villages were really quiet. Only a few shops were open and those that were close mostly said, "be back in March". Sigh, give me the Italian lifestyle of taking a long-ass, well-deserved winter break anytime. Regretfully, winter also meant that the hiking trail across all five villages were shut for repairs. I was devastated because I was looking forward to the hike but of course, my mom rejoiced in that fact hahahaha.
Our next stop was San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage Site also known as Italy's Medieval Manhattan because of the 72 towers built by the patriarch families to display their wealth in the past. Although only 12 of these towers remain, they retain that raw, rustic look and rise up way above the Tuscan landscape.
Most people base themselves in Florence and take a day trip out to the Tuscan countryside, visiting smaller towns like San Gimignano and Siena. My ambitiousness to break away from city-living meant that we did just the opposite - we spent 2 nights in San Gimignano and visited Florence from there instead.
Our "apartment" was part of an old castle so it was rather dark and the heating wasn't great. However, our Airbnb host was wonderful and so passionate about his hometown he gave me a translated book on its history which I spent my nights there reading.
I remember taking a one-hour bus ride to Florence on a very cold morning but we were instantly perked up after downing a shot of coffee and doing some souvenir-shopping in the main market of the city.
Unsurprisingly, Florence was packed with throngs of tourists - you can hear all sorts of languages in the air and of course those bright, ugly flags being waves around on top of bobbing heads. My mom and I really enjoyed the overall vibes of this (yet another) UNESCO World Heritage Site, especially with the Renaissance architecture at every turn. I'm a huge, huge fan of near-bird's eye views so I really loved Piazzale Michaelangelo. Beware of the short but steep hike you have to make to get up there (or you could just take a bus) but it's very doable.
We had a very unpleasant encounter when we left Piazzale Michaelangelo - we got scammed by the bus conductors and his cronies.
Lesson well-learnt: if the bus driver signals for you to just sit down when you ask him how to purchase the bus ticket, DO NOT sit down without paying. Insist on purchasing the bus ticket - idk, stand there and harass him until he takes the money. Not having a ticket when the bus has started moving will cost you 50 euros and you really don't want that to happen. Despite that and the tourist crowd, I really liked Florence. On hindsight, perhaps spending two full days there would be more ideal.
Our final leg of the trip was spent in Rome and I'm quite convinced that the noise, the vibrancy and the ruins are all part of the city's charm. It's a big place and its popular sights stretch beyond the city centre so remember to get an accommodation near a metro station. Our Airbnb was situated right outside the Vatican City so it was quite a journey to explore the area around the Colosseum and other museums.
We got pick-pocketed on a public bus outside of the Vatican City just as we were wrapping up our second last day. It was partially my fault because after being in very quiet towns for the past one week, I seriously let my guard down even in this notorious Roman city. But I insist that I should not be blamed entirely because YOU AREN'T SPSED TO BE TAKING THINGS THAT DON'T BELONG TO YOU IN THE FIRST PLACE. It was very unfortunate, but I'm glad we weren't harmed in the process.
If I could, I would spend a week just in this city alone because I think Rome has so much to offer. Of course, I would also like to be back again just to refresh (and replace) my initial impression and memory of the place.
After being the target of an unfortunate scam AND pick-pocketing, I was very much looking forward to going home to Singapore where it’s safer on so many degrees. But on our last night, I sorely regretted that thought because tbh, the past two weeks were absolutely wonderful:
A cup of caffé kicks off the early morning, followed by a few hours of the intended exploration of gorgeous architecture and art, before we sit down at a café under the afternoon sun in the cold with a glass of rosé and a plate of parma ham for lunch. The exploration and picture-taking (without selfie-sticks) continues again, and before we know it, we’re in the queue outside a gelato shop for a piccolo with two scoops of dark chocolate and pistachio. We also stop by a dessert shop known for its tiramisu, and wolf it down in 2 bites each right outside. Dinner is a three-course meal including homemade and pipin’ hot tagliatelle al ragù, not complete without a small jug of wine each (I finish my mom’s one for her) and then we take a long stroll back to our apartment (or the bus stop). Of course, the day includes my terrible navigation skills (in my strong defence, the compass of my Google Maps guides me to the wrong direction), my broken Italian (that sounds more like Spanish) and my plastered, pleasant smile (to both charming strangers and rude shopkeepers).
I don’t know about you, but I definitely can get used to that life.
I’ll be back – this time still with a suitcase weighing 20kg but with a rented car to drive thru Rome, as well as the South.
It’s not just the idea of being on holiday without the burdens of a job and work that excites me. Italy itself is a rough, uncut but still sophisticated gem where art and life meet at the crossroads so effortlessly.
It truly is la dolce vita.
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